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ISSUE DATE: MAY, 1994; Vol. 184, No. 5, Whole No. 3346
IN THIS ISSUE:-
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COVER: "GEENA DAVIS, Hollywood's Brainy Bombshell." COVER LOOK: Actress Geena Davis embodies the season's polished approach in a simple black tank dress, swept-back hair, and equally sophisticated makeup. Eyes are lined and shaded with rich brown Eyesexxxy in Hot Cocoa, lashes lengthened with Falsies Mascara in Blackest Brown, and lips given a strong matte finish with Lipsexxxy in Sensual Mauve. All by Ultima II. Dress by Emporio Armani. (For more on Davis, see page 246.) Details, stores, see In This Issue. Hair, Garren of Garren, New York, at Henri Bendel; makeup, Denise Markey for the Stephen Knoll Salon. Fashion Editor: Brana Wolf. Photographer: Steven Meisel.
UP FRONT EXCUSE ME: As everyone from the Bobbitts to the Menendez brothers is spared a guilty verdict, a new culture is emergingwhere everyone is a victim and no one is responsible for any thing. Julia Reed shudders at the thought.
MOVIES: Home front: Five new films focus on families both dysfunctional and disreputable. Joan Juliet Buck looks at theissues that hit home.
MOVIES: Marisa's moment: In the wake of last year's Oscar, MARISA TOMEI had a baby. got engaged, and traveled the world to fulfillher destiny although only in the movies. Kristin van Ogtrop learns what the actress wants from real life. [NICE multi-page article, FULL PAGE PHOTO!]
ART: OBJECTS OF AFFECTION: WAYNE THIEBAUD has been mislabeled a Pop Artist dismissed as an old-fashioned realist, andmisrcpm cscntLd is t San Framicisco regionalist. But for more than three decades is Bill Berkson reports, he has remained our mostcomplicated artificer in paint.
THEATER: A director calls: Stephen Daldry's production of An INspector Calls now on Broadway, gives America its first look at thework of Bittain s hot new director. John Heilpern chats with the 33--year--old theatrical visionary.
TELEVISION; The prime of PBS: This month the PLtblic Broadcasting System imports, yet again, two classy British series--PrimeSuspect 3 and Middlemarch. Robert F. Sullivan. Jr., loves the shows but worries about the networks future.
BOOKS: Poets and parents: In two new tiovels of families and fate. the telling is as compelling as the tales, finds Hilary Spurhing.
BOOKS: BETWEEN THE SHEETS: The sexual revolution told us we could do anything we wanted. But judging from the continuingflood of guidebooks, apparently not all of us know exactly how. Alexatder Cockburn looks at some of the latest efforts, from theliterary to the clinical, to emligltem us om the ever-comfusing topic of sex.
TRAVEL ACCIDENTAL AFRICA: By a quirk of fate. Julia Reed finds herself om safiiri where she is totally unprepared for the peace andthe passion of thuis beautiful, still--wild world.
THE BRAINY BOMBSHELL: She began her movie career in her underwear, playing a vampire and the lover of a human fly but Geanna Davis is now a stylish, Oscar-winnimug actress. George Kalogerakis catches Davis between giving birth in Angie and swashbuckling in a pirate movie directed by her new husband, Remumuy Harlimi. and observes Hollywood's leading clotheshorse in action, Photographed by Steven Meisel.
PASSION PLAY: With his new musical, the sardonic genius of Broadway. Stephen Sondheim, tackles the power of a womanobsessed In PASSION, he and his collaborator, James Lapine, unleash an ugly heroine who prevails through the sheer force of her love . Joan Juliet Buck listens in as they make raw emotions sing.
STROKES OF GENIUS: A retrospective celebrating his ninetieth birthday makes clear that Dutch immigrant Willem de Kooning wasthe most powerful force in the creation ofa hew, uniquely Amnericamu art. Dc Kooning's painting at its best, says Jed Perl, is alivewith youth amid eiiergy, amid its secret, like the best magic, is right there for all to see.
WOMEN UNDER FIRE: For two bug, bloody years, the women of Sarajevo have fought hard to preserve some semblance ofnormal life in their ravaged city. With a fragile cease--fire now in effect, Janine de Giovamumui profiles the courageous standsof three of them -- a cop, a newspaper editor, and an activist mother of ten.
DOG DAYS IN MIAMI: Photographer Bruce Weher and Nan Bush have cm e ited their retreat in Florida with an eye toward open air,ocean views, and creature -- particularly canine - comforts. Julia Reed visits.
LIVING DESIGN IN THE RAW: Usitug umicortvemitional methods amid materials everythuitug froni scrap metal mc) garbage -desigmuduo Ada Tolla and Gicmseppe Lignano are merging chaos and creativity. Hamnishu Bowles gets the lowdown on low tech.
LIVING TALKING TRASH: Wit amid humor aren't the only thimigs designers are reviving with their muew recycle aesthetic.
WORKING CLASS: Taking their CLIC From urban street style, designers are rolling up their sleeves and crafting clothes inspired by held hands overalls, workmen's uniforms, and other utilitarian classics. Jennifer Jackson reports.
BRIEF ENCOUNTER: When they weren't marching down the runways. modcls at the reccnt lull collections were hiking up their hemlines for an all--out elTon in support of short.
FINALLY BUYING ARMANI: In the understated nineties, the Armani jacket is perhaps the ultimate In soft, simple chic. Intrigued by the mystique and undaunted by some indifferent sales stall, Dodie Kazanjian succumbs to the perfect one.
MATERIAL GIRL: With icr unique brand of richly colored and decorated handcrafted fabrics, textile designer Sahina Braxton has helped coutuniers realize their most opLtlent fantasies. Now she's ready to spread the wealth with her own accessories line, finds Katherine Betts.
POINT OF VIEW: Fashion's new woman: strong and sexy After seasons of soft layers and LlnstrLtctured slips, a very tailored, verypulled--together look is taking shape. The pivotal elements: the sharp lines of a menswear suit, the forceful femininity of high stilettoheels, and the polish of smooth hair, hued eyes, and really red lips. Katherine Betts looks at the changing face of lashuon.
THE BRAINY BOMBSHELL: Taking a break from over--the--top Hollywood glamour, actress Geena Davis dons looks both tailored andsleekly sexy for photographer Steven Metsel.
THE BIG FINISH: Making the return after months of minimal accessory looks: dramatic, ollen high--shine designs that complementfashion s newly polished approach. Among the standouts glittering headed bags in strong geometric shapes, high heels that lace theleg, and brilliant bracelets and necklaces studded with gemstones.
BIKINI BOUND: Summer's ultimate expression of the strong, womanly look coming to the fore in fashion now: the sexy string bikini,making a comeback in everything from glossy pastel pink to vibrant turquoise to shimmering silver. Photographed by Steven Meisel.
A GRECIAN TURN THIS SEASON: desigiiers celebrate an ancient rite of sprig. Inspired by nymphs, goddesses, auid Isadora Duncan,they've created simple. sweetly wanton dresses with romantic drapery, Empire waists, and enough slicer fluidity to gently showcasethe body. Photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth.
SWING SHIFT: Keeping warm-weather dressing short and to the point: the simple--as--can--he thigh--high shift, one shape everydesigner agreed oui lot spin mug tnch summer. (ut to move from silk, linen, and other fluid fabrics, these easy pieces are at theirbest finished with just a sexy, strappy sandal. Photographed by Steven Meisel.
TALKING FASHION: It was a bumpy ride at the Paris kill collections when lutshikuini ss emit to the movies, courtesy of RohertAltman's Prêt--a --Porter. Partners in style: Yoctth makes atiything look grcctt. Here the stars shine at a t ecent Hollywood benefit forDARE organized by Neiman Marcus and Richard Tyler for Anne Klein.
VOGUE'S LAST LOOK: With fashion's return to shapelier silhouettes, designers are throwitig some extrct curves with corsets.
BEAUTY & HEALTH:
A SMOKER'S TALE: Susan Tanner grew up with the ads that equated smoking with female independence. Sixteen years later, as aresult of her unbroken habit, she's lighting for custody of her daughter. Tanner feels like a victim. Is she? Steve F'ishman reports on thelatest skirmish in the war on smoking.
VOGUE BEAUTY: EYEING THE EAST: No longer willing to be regarded as either docile and demure or exotic and dangerous, Asianwomen are shaping their own identities and telling their own stories. And the rest of the world is paying attention. From moviescreens to best--seller lists to fashion runways. Georgina Howell sees the Asian impact.
GETTING GLOSSED: Summer is shaping up as the season to shine, thanks to dewy, luminous makeup and lots of lip gloss.
IN THE PINK: Spring's ultrafeminine fashion and a new palette of pretty, rose-toned makeup prove fitting inspiration for thinkingpink.
SLOUGHING OFF: Do exfoliators, which speed up the shedding of dead skin cells, really offer an improvement on nature?.
Beauty clips By Amy Taran Astley.
SCENTS OF TASTE: As the battle of the bottles continues, the perfume industry is unleashing a new weapon, the enticing aroma offood-- exotic fruits and spices, coconut and caramel, vanilla, and even chocolate. Jefirey Steingarten goes behind the scenes andtakes it all in.
COUNTER INTELLIGENCE: In the quest to stand out from the crowd, how do fragrances acquire mythic stories, celebrity status, andcustomer devotion? Henry Alford wields an atomizer and learns thc sect ets of selling scents.
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